Desenvolvimento, análise cinética e avaliação sensorial em humanos de formulação cosmética contendo polpa de cajá (spondias mombin l.)

Abstract

The cosmetics industry is one of the fastest growing in the market. Dynamic by nature and driven by constant product innovations, the Personal Hygiene, Perfumery and Cosmetics area is also characterized by higher numbers than the other industrial divisions. Within the cosmetic sector, the main products sought are anti-aging creams and acne control products. Of all the organs of the human body, none is more easily observed or exposed to infections, diseases and injuries than the skin. Defined as the largest organ of the human body, the skin is divided into two main parts: the dermis and the epidermis. In addition, it is responsible for functions such as body temperature control and barrier between the internal and external environment. The use of skin care products is not something new. Moisturizers are one of the most important classes of products for this segment and are responsible for ensuring a deep hydration of the skin. Such products are obtained by emulsions which are characterized in that they are a heterogeneous system, consisting of at least one immiscible liquid dispersed in another in the form of drops. In addition, they are mostly composed of oil phase, aqueous phase, emulsifiers and specific additives. Among the many resources used to moisturize the skin, the addition of active substances in cosmetic formulations has been a frequent occurrence. In view of the above, the proposal of this research is to evaluate the action of cajá pulp (Spondias mombin L.) as active in cosmetic formulations, aiming at skin care and improving its appearance leaving it younger and radiant. From the analysis, formulations were formulated for facial and body moisturizing cream, using cajá pulp at concentrations of 0.5; 1.5 and 3.0%, in order to carry out sensory analysis and verify the immediate and long-term effects of hydration kinetics. In addition, it was possible to evaluate parameters such as transepidermal water loss, pH and skin elasticity of the research volunteers. For the sensory analysis, the volunteers answered a questionnaire in order to obtain information about the perception regarding the market attitude. The facial formulation presented greater acceptance. All formulations caused increased hydration and skin elasticity. The formulations containing the different concentrations of cajá pulp improved skin barrier function in the short and long term. The results suggest that the use of the products containing cajá pulp evaluated is important in protecting the barrier function of the skin and in improving the parameters, without interfering in the cutaneous pH.