Uso do pó das folhas do melão de São Caetano (Momordica charantia l.), obtido por secagem em camada de espuma, em formulações cosméticas capilares

Abstract

The São Caetano melon (Momordica charantia L.) is a plant belonging to the cucurbitaceae family. It originated in Asia and is currently considered an invasive plant in tropical and subtropical countries, due to its rapid adaptation in these regions. Leaves, flowers and fruits have significant chemical and nutritional composition and activities such as antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory have already been proven in several parts of this plant. Global demand for natural cosmetics has been growing considerably in recent years, driven by sustainability and wellness trends. Consumers become interested in raw materials of natural origin that add value to the final product. The drying process is of great importance to ensure the quality and stability of plant species, reducing the risk of proliferation of microorganisms, since there is a reduction in water present in the material. Among the various drying techniques, the foam layer has been widely studied due to its low cost and high efficiency in removing moisture. The objective of this work was to obtain powder from the leaves of São Caetano melon, from drying in a foam layer, for later use in hair cosmetic formulations. For physicochemical characterization of the obtained powder, analyzes of pH, ash, moisture, solubility, total titratable acidity, measurement of brix and lipids, in addition to determinations of ascorbic acid, phenolic compounds and granulometry were performed. Adsorption isotherms were developed following an adaptation of the method proposed by Spiess and Wolf (1987). Samples were weighed with 0.5 g and taken for water activity reading, at the initial time and at regular time intervals. The temperatures in this study were 15; 30 and 45°C. For the development of shampoo and conditioner, concentrations of 0.5; 1.5 and 2.0% of the powder. The isotherms showed statistically significant values and were adjusted for the linear, Oswin and Peleg BET models, when analyzed individually and in groups. The obtained powder presented an average of 10.15% of humidity and a very low solubility rate, when compared with other materials. The content of lipids, vitamin C and phenolic compounds showed better results than some found in the literature for other studies. To compare the effects of the foaming agent used, a lyophilization drying was performed. The efficiency of the formulations was evaluated by means of foam and surface tension tests, for shampoos, and by combability tests and strands of different hair types. The foams and surface tensions of the formulations developed were equivalent to market products. For combing, concentrations of 1.5 and 2.0% obtained the best results. When analyzing the brightness, all the concentrations used proved to be efficient. In the accelerated stability study, the shampoo proved to be unstable over the weeks, requiring a formula adjustment. The conditioner was stable, with no change in viscosity, just a slight change in pH. From what has been observed, the powder of São Caetano melon leaves can be an alternative for use as an active in cosmetic formulations.