UM DEFEITO DE COR : A LITERATURA COMO CAMINHO METODOLÓGICO DE LEITURA DO MERCADEJAR DE COMIDAS NA CIDADE DE SALVADOR PELAS GANHADEIRAS NO SÉCULO XIX

Abstract

Typically, the construction of Brazilian food culture is not narrated from the perspective of Black women cooks or enslaved Africans. This article addresses this quest by means of the representation through the work of the ganhadeiras in Salvador during the 19th century, the research focuses on Ana Maria Gonçalves' book Um defeito de cor (2006) -which is an inventive work based on the experiences of Black women, especially African and enslaved women- and the story of its protagonist, Kehinde, to understand the formation of Brazilian cuisine within the context of slavery, establishing a dialogue with Taís Machado's research presented in Um pé na cozinha (2022). The study examines how food played a crucial role in the lives of women, providing not only sustenance but also a means to achieve freedom and construct a food identity in a new territory. Despite precarious conditions and constant surveillance, the ganhadeiras managed to create a significant space for action in the streets of Salvador, using food trade as a form of autonomy and negotiation in the face of slavery. The work highlights the importance of Afro-Brazilian cuisine, which emerged from the African diaspora and the fusion of different cultures and culinary techniques. Through the sale of their foods in the streets, the ganhadeiras not only contributed to the population's nourishment but also disseminated their traditions, knowledge, and culinary skills, shaping Brazilian gastronomy. The research explores how the ganhadeiras, with their entrepreneurial spirit, found in food a pathway to freedom, community building, and cultural preservation, even amidst the oppression of slavery.